Toyomoto Instruction Sheets pg1 pg2 pg3  pg4

 

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Lexus logo Supra TT 13" rotor and caliper	this baby needs lowered	HIDs would be nice!	Beginning of Turbo Project	235/45/17 fronts, 285/40/17 rears	17x8s front, 17x9.5 rear
			Turbo Bits

Goals:
To get the best performance for the least amount of money.  That means sacrificing flashy items for items with
proven performance gains.  For this reason, no money was spent on anything visual, spoilers, wings, body kit,
etc.  The focus is on making the car go, stop, and corner as well as possible for the money.  Drag racing is
planned with 11 second ET goal for the car.

Current Philosophy on power:
As part of a reluctance to buy bigger turbo, intercooler, etc.   I've decided to stay at stock compression,  stay with
the T60-1 and see how far this configuration can be taken.  To my knowledge, no 2JZ has exceeded 550rwhp on
stock compression.   Data from the turbo map on the T60-1 reveals that its not a very good turbo for high boost like
a T66 is.   The T60-1 can flow some decent CFM, but for some reason responds better to increased rpm than it
does by increased boost pressure ratios.   On the turbo map, increased rpm moves data points to the right side of
the map.   On the 2JZ with stock compression, there is ample reserve efficiency to the right side, but not much
to work with in the vertical (boost) axis.   What this all means is that the T60-1 is a good candidate for around
18psi and very high rpm.  Coincidentally, 18psi is pretty much the limit of stock compression and 116 octane
leaded race gas.   So fully tuned, we're meeting both the top of the efficiency range of the turbo with race gas,
and flowing the maximum cfm of the turbo by revving higher.  This should get the most bang for the buck.   The
savings are that:  1. with stock compression, the engine is doing more work, the turbo is doing less.  Intercooler
demands are lowered, enabling the stock TT sidemount to remain in the loop without heat soaking from high boost.
2.  High rpm running is easily done on the 2JZ.  It has been proven to take 8000 to 9000rpm as long as you keep
the valves from floating.   With increased cam profile, stronger springs, I've enabled the potential for significant
gains in the 7000+ rpm range.  3.  A 10:1 car will always feel more responsive and boost sooner than an 8.5:1
car.  This yield less of the "Jekyl and Hyde" spooling of a big turbo on low compression, and would actually yield
good road race performance.

With 423rhp on a previous dyno run at 14psi on pump gas with stock MAF and stock axle back exhaust as a
reference, the numbers on the turbo maps and HP calculators seem to suggest the possibility of 550rwhp at
7500rpm on 14psi and pump gas.  If the 423rwhp number is assumed, exhaust improvement and MAF elimination
could yield another  30rwhp for a 453rwhp total.   Raising the rpm limit, the porting, cams, etc, could yield another
50-75rwhp.  Acurate tuning could yield another 20-30rwhp.  Race gas numbers could go marginally higher.

Toyomoto turbo specs:
Garret T60-1 turbo with T60 chassis,  .60AR inlet and smaller .58 AR exhaust housing. larger P-trim wheel. 
Supra TT  side mount intercooler.  Toyomoto hard piping.   Fuel pump upgrade (Supra Turbo).  Haltech fuel
computer with (2) 550cc injectors.  Toyomoto exhaust manifold w/ custom Toyomoto 3.5"  downpipe and top cat
bypass...  Turbonetics deltagate external wastegate with 5LB spring and Toyota ABV (bypass valve) from Supra TT.

Other upgrades:
Supra TT front brakes: (4 piston calipers, 12.6x1.3" vented front rotors). TRD stainless steel braided front brake
lines.  These components are easy to install but require 17" wheels at minimum.  Some 17s will not fit the calipers. 
This required modifications of the front calipers by shaving the heat sinks off the sides to fit the rims.  This brake
job ended up taking 5 hours, but if you don't do the lines and don't have problems with clearance, its a 2.5 hour
job with no complications, just bolt on.

The wheels are Konig Monsoons, 17x8.5s front, 17x9.5 rear.  114x5 bolt pattern 40 offset front, 49 rear.  They
are inexpensive, but heavy wheels.  Will be looking for something lighter with more pizazz later.  These wheels are
wrapped in Kumho Ecsta MX 235/45/17 fronts and 285/40/17 rears.  I'm quite pleased at the low tread noise,
the wet traction, which is good considering the width.  The sidewalls are fairly stiff and the ride is average for
this size.

Kills:
Many Mustang GTs varying mods, 2002 Z06 Corvette, 100-150shot NOS powered WS6 Firebird,   
1 family GS400, 1 300ZXTT modded w/ ported intake, exhaust, cats, dp, ECU, increased boost, etc., 
1 Roush Stage 3 Mustang, one DSM slightly modified, a few LS1Camaros including an SS.  Had a draw on
a highly modded Buschur DSM.

Timeline:

Update: 7/09/2003:
Well, the Greddy E-Manage didn't work too well.   It caused the car to stall every couple of minutes.  It was
related to how the unit accepts and manipulates the Karmann Vortex input from the stock SC300 airflow meter.
Instead an Apexi SAFCII was ordered through Horsepower Freaks.  It was installed and works great with the
stock ECU.  Next step is tuning.

Update: 6/11/2003:
Ordered a Greddy E-manage piggy back ECU.  Eventually it can/will also control larger primary injectors, modify
the stock timing and control the two auxiliary 550cc injectors.   The HPF clutch is doing fairly well, not much
chatter right now.  No really hard launches lately.  The Kumho MX tires are breaking in as well and getting loud.
These are max performance tires and have all the suspected drawbacks: harsh ride, noise, follows ruts, etc.   On
the highway, I don't notice the tread noise as much as around town, where they "sing".  Traction has been very
good, braking and cornering traction on dry pavement is excellent.  I'm not convinced that they're all that much
better than the Dunlop SP5000s at this point.


Update: 6/11/2003:
Clutch breaking in nicely, mainly happy with it, but less so than when originally installed.  Its still better than the
RPS, you have to take it for what its worth:  Its a small diameter single disc metal material clutch.  No matter what,
its not going to be as streetable as an organic clutch no matter how many springs are in the disc.  Furthermore,
although it generally holds the power, it has slipped on a 3-4 shift under boost.  It may be able to hold 450+rwhp,
but can it carry 450rwhp through a shift?  No way.  Around town most of the previous comments apply.  It chatters
less than 50% of the time.  If careful you can usually get it to slip without chatter.   The clutch seems lighter
than the RPS, and still has a better shift quality.

Update: 5/12/2003:
Clutch install complete.  ACT plate is slightly lighter than the RPS plate was.  Clutch is slightly smoother, lighter,
easier to shift.  Clutch chatters on a rare occasion, but is generally very smooth for a 6 puck disc.  Should have
balanced the pressure plate flywheel assembly. There is a slight shimmy.  Not very noticeable, but its there.  Other
work done includes the Techedge wideband 02 install.  This went very smoothly.  Air/fuel ratios are generally from
less than 10.0 up to 12.9 to 1 at high rpm under boost.  More fuel control in form of AEM or SAFC is needed.  EGT
gauge also installed.  Two of the three Defi gauges are hooked up.

Update: 5/7/2003:
Clutch replacement in progress.  Ordered an ACT plate and Horsepower Freaks Bronze 6puck sprung disc.  RPS
clutch problem was found to be a broken spring on the disc.  A fragment splintered off and got stuck in the
pressure plate causing it to not release.   Also in progress are a gauge install in the ash tray area.  This will
amount to three Defi gauges (Boost, Fuel Pressure, EGT).   A wideband 02 sensor and display install is also
underway.  Updated Electronics page to reflect the Defi and Wideband gauges.

Update: 4/17/2003:
Crower cam notes (see link above) now include seat of the pants impressions and details of the head work that
was recently done.

Update: 3/20/2003:
Car has been re-assembled with the stock head gasket.  Still at 10:1 compression.  Stock fuel rail is still on. 
Wired EGT sensor on the manifold, the head thoroughly reworked.  Re-assembly was uneventful.  Car currently
running pretty well on stock ECU considering the cams aggressive profile.   Only detriment with new cam is slight
"lopey" idle and a bit more lag and less torque down low.  Top end is much much stronger.  Pulls through 6500
rpm with ferocity now.   See detail on Crower cam above.

Update  2/28/2003:
Car has been disassembled for approximately a year due to various issues, none of which are related to any
problems with the vehicle except for leaky valve stem seals.  These caused oil consumption, deposits  and
resulted in ragged compression and smoke at idle.  The solution is a simple stem seal replacement that can
actually be done on the car.  I chose to use the opportunity to do a complete R&R of the complete top end of the
engine.  Around July of 2002, the head was off and much of the reconditioning was underway.   Crower reworked
the cam to a much hotter profile with larger lift and slightly increased duration of approximately 268 / 270 degrees. 
Crower higher rate valve springs and 3 angle valve job was done.  Special attention was paid to the back sides of
the valves.  The seats were throroughly reworked.   The head was ported and polished with most of the attention
on the exhaust side.   After around 8 months of inactivity, starting to assemble everything.

Lacking confidence in my ability to get the car properly running with several planned mods, I elected to put the
car back together with the stock fuel system and stock Headgasket for the interrim.  The AEM ECU will have to
be installed and somewhat calibrated before any of the other mods are installed.  Other upgrades waiting for
installation are a dual feed fuel rail with 720cc injectors, Toyomoto Headgasket for lowered compression,  These
will have to wait until the vehicle is stable with the AEM and stock fuel---just too many variables.

With the AEM and fuel system upgrades, anticipated power will be 550rwhp on 93 octane fuel.   This is
accomplished with the existing T60-1 through an increase in the rev-limit (8000rpm), increased flow through
porting the head and increased breathing capacity through the higher lift cams.  Compressor maps show that
significant power gains can be had over 423rwhp, just by increasing the rev-limit.

Other non-critical updates underway include a Defi gauge suite with boost, EGT, fuel pressure, and oil pressure.

Update  11/14/2001:
Installed Apexi AVC-R boost controller and 3" mid pipe.  Cats are completely gone.  Dynoed the other week at
Collettis.  It recorded 423RWHP at 6500rpm.  This figure is a corrected figure and reflects the low boost setting
on the controller, which is 10-13psi variable.  These runs were made on ordinary pump gas with no prep time, and
no time to cool the car.   The higher setting on Race gas would have yielded far higher readings, but the dyno
session was a last minute thing.  Another 4psi and Race Gas would yield a solid 500rwhp give or take a few.

Update  6/13/2001:
Had the oil drain hose from turbo to block plug up... For a week, I was in fear that the engine or turbo had given
up.  I completely dis-mantled the turbo and re-installed and found the collapsed hose only after 10 hours of labor. 
Also went to Kil - Kare Dragway over the weekend.  Ran a 12.73 with a horrible 2.3 60ft time.  Traps were
116.91mph.  Track was very slow with high humidity, near 90 temps. Best times were early with headlight and
mid pipe pulled.   Added race gas later, but heat worked against us and times never improved. All runs were on
crappy SP5000 street Dunlops.  All runs still at 10 psi!.  There is room for improvement!

Update  3/14/2001:
Installed NGK 3330 spark plugs gapped to .030... Car seems to drive smoother.  Had stock SC300 plugs in it
before.  Now when boosting at low RPM under excessive rich condition, the car drives smoother and doesn't buck
as much even though I know the mixture is way off.   After inspecting the stock plugs (which had around 5k miles
on them), found them to be in really good shape. I was expecting them to be black with carbon fouling, but there
was just a greyish brown color and all were even, which is just about right.  Since I think these plugs will ward off
detonation, I will try to advance the timing a bit, and may even up the boost by a pound or two.  Next time to the
track, I'll try a 50/50 mixture of race gas, and try to advance the timing a bit more.  In an effort to hook up better,
I'll also drop some air pressure and get a better burnout.  I'm sliding through 1st and into 2nd gear way past the 60ft
mark.  I also swapped tires on our GS400 and found that the Dunlop SP5000s that I've liked so far are partly
responsible for the poor straightline tracking problem.   Current recommendations are Bridgestone RE730s, S02
pole positions and Michelin MXX3s.

Update  3/3/2001:
Went out to the drag strip for some testing...  Drove pretty good.  Didn't fiddle with anything yet as I wanted to
get a good baseline before I start tuning the car.  Run as follows:  Reaction .689  60ft 2.052  660ft  8.562   ET
13.150   MPH 107.561.  This was done on pump gas, with the Dunlop street tires at 35psi, and with a 1/2 tank
of gas.  Temp at track was 55 degrees.  Elevation 1000ft.

Update  2/16/2001:
Car is running fine, no major drivability problems to speak of... Really need fuel control... My fuel curve is pretty
out of whack since I stepped up the boost to 10psi.  This required backing off the ignition timing.   Easily done
with an ordinary timing light.  I think I set it around 5deg BTDC instead of the factory setting..  I also had to hook
up the 2nd 550cc injector to get enough fuel in the system to prevent detonation.   Detonation is not a major
problem now, with only a slightest hint of a tinkle occasionally under full boost.  Most of the time I get no detonation
at all.

Update  1/29/2001:
After the 2nd clutch was installed, the tranny would not shift into gear.  The suggestion of RPS was to shim the
pressure plate.  We did this and ended up with a working clutch finally.   Only took disassembling the car 3 times. 
RPS really sucks.

Update  1/16/2001:
Clutch is out of balance or mis-installed.  Engine shakes now at all speeds.  In process of getting in yet another
flywheel and pressure plate.  Hopefully this will cure the problem.  8 hours of labor down the drain.  I did drive it,
though and it appears to be holding the power. Chatters like a SOB.  Most of the chatter is supposed to go away
when the clutch is broken in.

Update  1/10/2001:
Clutch is being replaced.  Flywheel is cooked so bad that it couldn't be turned.  I also elected to replace the rear
main seal.  Not because it was leaking, but because they often do, and its only a $40 part anyways.  Might as
well do it while its apart.  Tech says he's never seen a clutch "so cooked".  Hope thats not a bad sign of things
to come.  He also noticed the front rotors are digging into something on the inside section only, so I'll have to
investigate.  Rest of driveline holding up well, he says.

Update  1/3/2001:
l disconnected the VBC and decided to install the 10LB spring to get the desired boost level... It took two hours
due to the difficult access, but results are worth it.  10LBS was the final straw in the already weak clutch.  I've
got an RPS stage III turbo clutch with their newly released sprung hub carbon/ ceramic disk.  This combo is
suppoesd to hold 600LBS/FT, so we'll see.  Ordered an MSD 6BTM ignition system  and 8910 tach adapter to
handle boost retard in the ignition timing.  At 10psi, there is slight detonation on stock ignition system.  I have
retarded the ignition timing from 10 deg BTDC to 5 deg BTDC.   NKG 3330 plugs will hopefully eliminate any 
remaining detonation.

Update  1/1/2001:
Installed the VBC upgrade.  Basically a vacuum bleeder line that allows the 5 pound waste gate spring to
behave like a variable 5-15lb one.  We got the kit installed pretty easily but I don't like what the results are. 
At 0 extra, the boost is now hitting 6 pounds.  More disturbing is the fact that now the turbo is boosting too
soon and the car is working the turbo much harder at light throttle.  Even at 1/3rd throttle, the boost is reaching
the 6psi mark.  Before, you'd have to dig in over 3/4 throttle to get full boost which is the way it should be.  
The overboosting seems to affect the drivability also as there is less power now.  I'm probably going to switch
it back to original position and install a 10 pound spring.   Lance may have a work around to prevent premature
boosting.   Its either that or get an electronic boost controller installed soon.  There's another thing it does, if you
get on the boost and off then back on, it bucks. The old setup didn't do this.

Clutch search...Have determined that ACT makes an upgraded pressure plate that will allow hold 350 LBS/FT of
torque with an organic stock type disc.  We're thinking that with the ACT plate, we'll add an RPS carbon claw
disc for hopefully 400-450 LBS/FT capacity.   The clutch is no longer holding 3rd or 4th gears under boost, so this
has to happen quickly.   The cold weather can't be good either, the car feels way quicker when the mercury
plummets.  I don't have any sure way to measure, but using our GS400 as a measuring stick, I'd say
we're comfortably in the low 300hp range at the wheels right now.  Seat of the pants feel the GS is significantly
less powerful, verified by racing my wife home from work one day.  With salt on the road I couldn't pull away from
the GS until I finally hooked up around 50mph,  after that, from 50-85mph, I put an easy 2-3 car lengths on her.  
She was e-shifting and I know she was pushing the GS as hard as she could.  She has run the GS on the track
and got a best of 14.6 @ 96mph, so I know she can drive it.  I'm not sure myself how to drive the SC, it doesn't
really need to be winded out, but that always seems to happen with how fast the tach swings.  As long as you're
above 4k rpm, it seems to have the same power from there out to 6.5k.  This thing has a W I D E power band now.  
I've put off the dyno runs until I get the clutch installed, It would be worthless to spin the dyno wheels an not know
if the power is going up in smoke or spinning the rollers.

In progress:
nothing at this time.

Other planned upgrades:
KYB AGX adjustable shocks, Eibach springs, Supra TT rear brakes.  APEXi AFC.  Upgrade to 17x10  or 18x10
inch rears (better suited for 275s or wider).  HID philips headlight upgrade.  8.5:1 Toyomoto head gasket,

How does it drive?  12/15/2000:
Right now, I'm running between 4.5 pounds and 5.0 pounds of boost.  The clutch is weak, so I can't speed shift
without the clutch slipping. The car starts and runs through the lower gears and putters around town like a
normally aspirated car.  There are no hiccups, and cold weather running has not been a problem.  Fuel economy
around town is in the lower 20s, but the car is running lean under part throttle.  I would expect light city driving to
be around 22mpg with hwy at 28 if you don't put your foot in it.   As soon as you hit 1-2 pounds of boost, the
Haltech computer starts firing the extra injectors and fuel economy goes down the tubes.  1-2 pounds of boost is
really flying, though.  Even at an indicated 0 pounds of boost, the car would easily out run the stock one.  That is
because at 0 pounds, there is neither vacuum nor boost.  A normally aspirated engine is always working against
vacuum that holds power down.  I would estimate that the power is considerably above the stock peak even at 0
pounds of boost.

Running up through the gears, the 275's will not hold full boost without breaking loose even on the cleanest
asphalt.  In 2nd gear, the car will spin if the surface is even a little bit less than ideal.  In this winter condition,
they will even squirm into third gear around 75mph with a bit of salt contaminating the road.   Wet roads are
equally treacherous, with one episode of spinning under boost in 4th at 85mph - not a comforting situation.

How much power does it have?  Well, I'm hoping to do some dyno pulls this week or next to get a firm grasp on
the power levels, but I can say that right now it took  our GS400 out  pretty easily.